Tinian

In 2007, we took a short trip to the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands, spending a total of 3 days on Saipan and 1 day on Rota. This year, on New Year's weekend, we returned to revisit Saipan and check out the third island, Tinian. If you're living in Asia and looking for a low-pressure, long weekend getaway, the CNMI are a lovely island trio to explore. These are U.S. territories, so English is the spoken language, dollars are the currency, 110 is the voltage, and treacly American hip-pop is what’s on the radio. I've done a mini travel post for each of the three islands, so if you're thinking of visiting, read on!
> Read about Saipan here.
> Read about Rota here.

Read about Tinian below.


1. Moment; 2. Holes

The Lonely Planet's South Pacific and Micronesia book (purchase just the Northern Marianas section in PDF form here) can give you a basic introduction to the geography of these islands. As a quick introduction, here is a little map I sketched:


1. Airport; 2. San Jose; 3. Tinian Dynasty Hotel & Casino; 4. Old Japanese communications center; 5. Unai Dankulo; 6. Unai Masalok; 7. Unai Chiget; 8. Blowhole; 9. North Field; 10. Atomic bomb loading pits; 11. Unai Lam Lam; 12. Unai Chulu; 13. Mount Laso; 14. Japanese village ruins; 15. Hidden little beach and Yapese cemetery; 16. Suicide Cliff

We slept
Lorilynn’s (#2) – The Lonely Planet’s description made it sound appealing enough, but when we got there, their restaurant appeared shuttered for good, and the girl at the front desk seemed honestly surprised that we wanted to stay there. “Are you sure? Don’t you want to see the room first?” I hesitate to characterize it as a dump, but there WAS a spider living in the faded curtains and the bathtub faucet leaked a rusty drizzle of water. I think $55 should get you a better deal than this. They don’t have a website or e-mail (or the ability to take credit cards) so if you want to reserve a room, call them at 1-670-433-3256.

Fleming Hotel (#2) – On our second night on Tinian we stayed at the Fleming. The Fleming Hotel has large, tidy rooms, and they even sprang for matching wicker furniture, a decorative pillow, and an abstract painting of a fish. All for only $10 more than Lorilynn’s. The “Hotel Nikko” printed on the bathroom towels gives a hint as to where they might have gotten their new décor: the (now-defunct) Hotel Nikko Saipan’s fire-sale, perhaps? They’ve got a well-stocked store and a decent restaurant too. The Fleming Hotel's website is all in Japanese, but you can email them here: tinianmf[AT]gtepacifica[DOT]net or call them at 1-670-433-3256.

Tinian Dynasty Hotel & Casino (#3) – We didn’t stay here, but I suppose I should mention it because it appears to be the island’s current main attraction. Busloads of Japanese, Chinese and Korean tourists come here to get their gambling on. In the casino, the tables all look like they were inherited second-hand from another era. There’s a SEGA plastic mini-horse-racing track that you can bet on that looks circa-1970s. The lobby interior is an excellent example of Plastic Disneyesque Baroque. Kind of… amazing… in a disturbing way.

We got around
In a rental car
There are Budget, Avis, and Islandar car rental booths at the airport, so take your pick. You could opt to rent a scooter instead, but there are a lot of dirt roads on Tinian so it could make for a bumpy ride. Don’t forget to take a copy of the car rental map – it’s pretty detailed and shows all the points of interest. Most of the unpaved, grassy roads are navigable with a compact car, so you won’t really need a 4x4.

Streets
Tinian’s network of streets was initially paved within a span of 4 months by the U.S. Navy Seabees in 1944. They are straight, wide and efficient-looking, leading directly from the dock on the southern end up to the airfield on the northern tip and giving Tinian the appearance of a giant aircraft carrier, which is essentially what it was from 1944-45. I imagine that 65 years ago they were heavily trafficked, but today the main roads are desolate, the smaller side streets are overgrown, and the odd Stop signs still stand at lonely intersections with nary a human in sight. Orienting yourself is easy if you’ve ever been to NYC. Tinian is shaped like a fat Manhattan; Broadway and 8th Avenue run north-south and 86th street runs “crosstown.”

We relaxed
Just south of town, there are three popular beaches, each a 5 minute walk from the other, each with it's own parking lot.

Kammer, Taga and Tachogna Beach -- Kammer Beach seems to be a hit with the local picnicking crowd. The strip of sand is narrow and doesn’t allow much room for sunbathing. Some steep, rocky concrete steps lead down to Taga Beach and to a diving platform where local teenagers challenge one another to jumping contests. The water is crystal clear and the drop-off is sandy but steep in this tiny little cove. Tachogna Beach is the most secluded of the three beaches in town. We watched some amazing postcard-worthy sunsets here, and the rocks just off-shore are worth a snorkel.

The more secluded beaches are on the north side of the island.

Unai Dankulo (#5), Unai Masalok (#6) and Unai Chiget (#7) -- These beaches are on the northeast side of the island. To get there, turn right off Broadway onto the dirt roads just north and south of the abandoned Japanese Communications Center. The beaches are pretty large, but a lot of crushed up beach garbage seems to wash up on shore here.

Unai Lam Lam (#11) and Unai Chulu (#12) -- These two are on the northwestern shore, close to the abandoned airfield. Lam Lam is hidden little cove protected by a rocky cliff. You won’t be disturbing anyone but the hermit crabs here. Chulu’s peaceful seclusion belies its history; it’s where American forces landed in July 1944, quickly overtaking the Japanese and setting the stage for WWII’s end.

The coast just southwest of Tinian’s airport is a short rocky cliff, but there is a wonderful secluded beach hidden in a cove somewhere in there (#15). I won’t tell you exactly how to get there; you’ll have to discover it yourself since that’s part of the fun. Hint: don’t be put off by the landfill on 8th Ave.


1. Empty; 2. Air Operations Building

We ate
All the restaurants are in San Jose (#2)

Take 5 – Take 5 is a simple little café near the post office that serves your choice of Filipino or Chamorro breakfast. Not the best value, though, cuz most of what you get is rice with only some tiny longanisa (sweet sausages) or cornbeef hash on the side.

JC Café – This café was crowded with local Japanese families when we went, seems pretty kid-friendly, and has a karaoke stage should the urge to sing in public strike you. It’s menu is diverse, covering Chinese American, Japanese, Korean, Filipino and American standards. I didn’t get a chance to try the Japanese, Korean and American food, but I’d recommend staying away from the Chinese American stuff. The Pinoy dishes were hearty and flavorful in an unhealthy, fatty sort of way. Free WiFi here, if you need to check in with the office. But why would you want to do that?

Kerida’s BBQ – This is both the best value and the best meal on the island, I think. The Filipino-style barbeque (your choice of chicken, pork or stuffed squid) is prepared and grilled on the spot and you can enjoy it on the picnic tables out back.

Minako’s Coffeeshop – Minako’s is located in a little strip mall on Broadway in downtown San Jose. A decent cuppa joe, Pinoy style breakfast, and local Tinian hot sauce for sale up at the counter.

Things to see
Suicide Cliff (#16) – From the rocky cliff on the southeastern tip of the island, Japanese soldiers and civilians jumped to their deaths rather than face surrender when American forces took the island in 1944.

Blowhole (#8) – At a spot north of Chiget Beach, the incoming waves hit a craggy shoreline of volcanic rock to create an impressive spray mist every 30 seconds. Go here for guaranteed rainbows.

An old Yapese Cemetary (#15) – I remember reading somewhere that some Yapese had been involuntarily moved from Yap to Saipan during colonial occupation, and I guess some of them ultimately ended up here on Tinian. We’ve been intrigued by Yapese culture ever since we visited the Federated States of Micronesia last year, so we spent a moment of silence here. All but two of the graves were unmarked. They were a long way from home.

Old Japanese Communications Center (#4) -- It’s located near the turnoffs for the Chiget and Dankulo beaches, on the northern end of Broadway. First a Japanese Communication Center, subsequently an American Communications Center where U.S. forces kept Japanese POWs and finally a slaughterhouse for a now-defunct cattle-ranch.

North Field (#9) -- In the summer of 1944, the newly arrived U.S. forces built North Field directly on top of the Japanese airbase (Ushi Field). Here, you can explore deserted and overgrown runways, abandoned air raid shelters, the crumbling Air Administration and Air Operations Buildings, and the two atomic bomb loading pits where Little Boy and Fat Man began their infamous journeys.

Tinian isn't exactly entertainment heaven, although the Tinian Dynasty Hotel & Casino might offer some respite for you if you're a gambling addict. It's hard to forget Tinian's important role in WWII here with all the war ruins scattered about the island; you can read more about their history here. While locals don't seem as effusively friendly as on the even tinier Commonwealth island of Rota, Tinian's desolate beaches interspersed with abandoned WWII relics will give your experience another feel entirely. North and south of town, the island is practically deserted. It can be strangely peaceful but sobering to sunbathe in the morning, and stroll amongst war ruins in the afternoon.

Palau

1. Jellyfish!, 2. Coral

1. Milky Way, 2. Half underwater

We spent 3 days in Palau, a gorgeous Pacific paradise especially famous for its marine wildlife and unique Rock Islands. The coral reefs here are lush and beautiful, and Palau is home to many of the world's best dive sites, making us really think about one day getting dive certification. The best thing to do once you get to Palau is get into the water. And definitely do not miss Jellyfish Lake! The Flickr photoset is here.

Unfortunately for us, a typhoon started whipping up in the nearby Philippines while we were there, so we didn't get to enjoy Mother Nature as much as we would have liked.

Palau is composed of a cluster of islands, some of which – Koror, Arakabesang, Malakal, and Babeldaob – are linked together by bridges. The beautiful, mostly uninhabited (but heavily touristed) limestone formations known as the Rock Islands are also part of Palau. Palau is also most recently famous for being the filming site of the reality show Survivor: Palau.

Palau is an independent nation but linked with the United States through the Compact of Free Association.

::Sleeping::
>>The Carolines Resort bungalows are nestled high up in the side of a hill on Arakabesang Island, just far enough away from Koror to avoid the noise and congestion, but not so far as to be inconvenient. Our bungalow, the deluxe, was waaay up at the top, so we had a steep hike every day. Luckily, meals can be ordered in the room for no extra cost, and the service was warm and friendly. The bungalows are very well-constructed, furnished with sturdy (but somewhat dated in style) hand-carved hardwood furniture, and offer wide balconies with stunning views. One of the perks of staying the Carolines is that you get a free pass to use the pool and beach at the more expensive Palau Pacific Resort, a 5 minute drive away.
>>The Palau Pacific Resort is probably the fanciest establishment in Palau, but it’s done up in an understated and tasteful manner. There aren’t a lot of beachfront hotels in Palau, so if you want chic digs and to roll out of bed onto a beach, this is your best bet.
>>Don’t assume you’re “getting away from it all” just by coming to Palau. Koror Island is heavily populated, packed with tour groups, and its traffic gets surprisingly thick during rush hour. If you really want to check out of society, stay at North Beach Cottages, aaaall the way on the northern tip of Babeldaob Island. It's a long drive from the airport and even further from town, but you won’t see a soul for miles. Eliminated Survivor contestants used to stay here during the filming of the reality show.

::Getting around::
>>Rental cars
We rented from Budget. Palau may be more developed than Yap, but their roads certainly aren’t. Though roads are nearly all paved, a lot of the ones in and around Koror and the airport are pothole strewn. I hope that will change soon – there certainly did seem to be a lot of road construction going on – but for now you might consider renting a vehicle with very good shocks. Cars are driven on the right side of the road, but some have the steering wheel on the right and others on the left. Remember to specify the type you prefer.
>>Walking
I would not really attempt to do much walking in Palau; there are few sidewalks and traffic can get surprisingly bad, especially at rush hour when the bridges get backed up. However, it is possible to get by without a rental car if you’re in Palau for a short stay. As a matter of practicality, you’ll have to schedule a tour for most of your activities anyway, and the tour companies will pick you up and drop you off at your hotel, obviating the need for a car.

::Eating::
>>The Rock Island Cafe
Just a bit west of the Court House in Koror, the Rock Island Cafe is a down-home American diner serving all the standards, complete with friendly chatty waitress and free coffee refills... The food is hearty and homey.
>>Coconut Terrace
This Palau Pacific Resort restaurant is airy with great views of the beach. We shared the refreshing tuna sashimi and a hearty taro soup for dinner.
>>The Carolines Resort
If you’re staying here, you can order meals in your room if you let the staff know a day ahead of time. There’s a wide variety of breakfast choices, from standard American pancakes and bacon, to Philippino longanisa and rice, to Japanese udon. For dinner we had the coconut crab, a cold, sweet, almost dessert-like dish. They don’t serve culinary masterpieces here, but our bungalow was situated at the top of a steep hill and it was raining heavily for much of our stay, so room service at The Carolines sounded just fine to us.
>>Bem Ermii
This burger truck in the parking lot across from the Court House in Koror provided one of the tastiest meals we had in Palau. We enjoyed a savory, greasy take-out bacon cheeseburger with fries and, sometimes, that’s just what you need.
>>The Carp Restaurant
They have a mostly Japanese menu, but there are some Palauan specialties. We tried the fruit bat soup as well as the mangrove crab. I have to say that I can’t really recommend this restaurant – the mangrove crab they served us had the mushy texture of a frozen-then-thawed, un-fresh crustacean; I just couldn’t finish it. On an island surrounded with marine life everywhere you turn, that’s just inexcusable! The fruit bat soup had a lot of bones, mostly from the wings, and it tasted a little bit like chicken, and a little bit not-like-chicken. It's the not-like-chicken part that disturbed me. I’d be willing to try fruit bat again, but not at this restaurant.

::Exploring::
>>Babeldaub
Older guidebooks may list Babeldaub as inaccessible, but modern changes are afoot; the island now has a brand new, beautifully-paved, blacktop highway (paid for by the Compact of Free Association with the U.S.) running around the perimeter. However, with few visible turnoffs and no helpful signage, it’s still difficult to see the sights without a guide. Traditional life remains protected, relatively removed from the main tourist path, a stark contrast to overly-developed Koror. On Babeldaob, there are waterfalls, traditional villages, traditionally-constructed bai (meeting houses), prehistoric stone monoliths, and a Yapese stone money quarry, among other sites, if you take the time to look. Familiarize yourself with what Babeldaob has to offer so you can prepare ahead of time what you want to see and how best to get there (hiring a guide is recommended). Here’s a wonderful resource on Palauan culture and history. We missed out on a lot of this because we attempted to do it on our own and mostly ended up getting lost.
>>Badrulchau
This site of ancient stone monoliths in the Ngarchelong district of Babeldaob Island, is one of the places on Babeldaub that we did manage to find on our own (with the helpful assistance of a convenience store owner). The view here on the northern narrow tip of the island was lush, verdant and atmospheric in the light misty rain that enveloped us. The stone monoliths are arranged in two rows, leading some archaeologists to believe that they were support stones for a large ancient meeting house.
>>Rock Islands
To get to the Rock Islands you must take a tour, as they are not open to unguided visitors. In addition to the tour fee, you should also expect to purchase a $25 Rock Island Permit, which you can get through the tour operator. There are numerous tour operators in Palau. Our first choice, Sam’s Tours, couldn’t take us because they only go out if they get at least 4 people on a boat, and no one else had signed up. So we went with a Japanese-run group, IMPAC. There were about 15 people on our boat and all the explanations were in Japanese, with sporadic translations to English for our benefit. Which might have been why Gavin and I were caught completely by surprise when we hit rough waters and got completely drenched halfway out to the islands. Note to self: Always put things you need to keep dry (digicams, change of clothes, etc) in the boat hold!

IMPAC's Rock Island Tours include:
>>A stop at the Milky Way
The Milky Way is a small cove where currents are calm and the sediment from the limestone cliffs has settled at the bottom giving the turquoise waters a milky hue. The mud is supposed to be good for your skin, so our guides pulled up some buckets of sediment and we all slathered on some mud to see what that was all about. I didn’t notice any special benefits, but it did feel nice and gooey.
>>Snorkeling and/or Sea Kayaking
After we rinsed the mud off, our tour boat took us to another spot among the Rock Islands. Most of the others in the group had signed up for sea kayaking, so Gavin and I got to snorkel alone for a while. An approaching storm was making the sea a little choppy, so, pronouncing “Safety first!” our boat captain deposited us in a protected cove instead of the deeper waters he usually brings snorkelers to. It rained on and off while we snorkeled and visibility wasn't great, but we still saw a wonderful and fascinating underwater world. Whether swimming under the overhang of the mushroom-like islands or along the sandy beaches of others, we saw amazing coral variety and diverse sealife. Brain coral that really look like brains! Glowing fish! We even swam in the blue-green waters of a partial marine lake (mostly closed off from the sea except for a small entrance via an underpass).
>> Snorkeling in Jellyfish Lake
This is one of the many marine lakes in Palau where, in waters closed off from the sea for millions of years, the jellyfish have lived with few natural predators, evolving to lose their sting. Though closed off to the sea for so long, they remain connected to the natural rhythms of the universe, following the sun east in the morning, west at sundown. It was an otherworldy experience to float amongst these gentle, blobular, pulsating creatures. They are so cute when they can't sting you! But please resist the urge to poke them; they're easily injured.
Practicalities:
Make sure to purchase the $35 Jellyfish Lake permit before you go; they check for permits carefully and deny entry to anyone without one. Getting to the lake involves a 15-minute hike through the jungle, including a steep incline and decline, so don't be one of those girls that must wear heels throughout your island vacation. Before going into the marine lake, our guides gave us life vests and instructions. Although we were allowed to use our fins to get out into the middle of the lake, once among the jellyfish we were not kick or move quickly because they could get injured. Nevertheless, among the 300 daily visitors to the lake there are always some who ignore the warnings, so the jellyfish still face danger. Our own group had one, a teenage girl who took off her life vest to free dive, kicking with her fins and actually POKING them with her fingers! Poor little jellyfish...
There are currently no limits on the number of visitors or size of the tour groups (some groups are as big as 40 or 50 people!) to Jellyfish Lake, but tour operators are expected to encourage responsible behavior. Our guide told us that some of the larger groups from the Taiwanese operators go in without fins and are allowed to float linked arm-in-arm, but are not allowed to swim or dive. If you go, please be kind to the jellyfish....
>>Lunch
With IMPAC tours you have your choice of either a hamburger or a bento box lunch. The location for the lunch is one of the Rock Islands with a sandy beach, which also seems to be the picnic spot of choice for all the other tour operators. Covered picnic tables and outhouses are available here. Large groups of Korean tourists, massive groups of Taiwanese tourists, and smaller groups of Japanese tourists were all congregated here. I have to say the Taiwanese tourists had the best lunch setup: huge buffets of hot, home-cooked food kept steaming in tin foil wrappers. Our dinky bento boxes were kind of lame in comparison.

::Rainy Day Activities::
Ok, I'll be honest. When the weather doesn't permit outdoor adventures, particularly water sports, Palau is pretty boring. But on our final day in Palau there was a typhoon in the nearby Philippines and a small craft advisory was in effect, so...
>>Palau Mariculture Demonstration Center
Want to see some giant clams? At the PMDC, they raise tridacna in large outdoor tanks. You have to pay a small admission fee, but despite the name of the center it was hard to get any of the staff to offer any demonstration or explanation. They all seemed intent on either 1) sitting around doing nothing or 2) counting piles of clams. No wonder they were kind of grumpy. If you are fascinated by tridacna and/or are really bored it might be worth a visit.
>>Palau Aquarium (Pacific International Coral Reef Centre)
A small, but well-maintained educational resource can be found in the Palau Aquarium, which is half outdoors and half indoors. If you have a little time this could be a nice way to familiarize yourself with some of the local coral reef wildlife before you hit the water yourself.
>>Etpison Museum
This privately funded museum has a very fine collection of Palaun cultural and natural artifacts. The shell and bead collection is pretty amazing.
>>Belau National Museum
A humble little museum with intriguing photographs and an explanation of the colonial history (Spain, Germany, Japan, then the U.S.) of the islands and the part they played in WWII.

Yap

1. Men's meeting house, 2. Old stone path, black-and-white

1. Orange and gray, 2. Sea urchin shell
Yap is tiny in comparison to Guam, but I wish we could have stayed longer than the 3 days we allotted! The locals are among the friendliest and warmest people I've met anywhere in the world. It took me some time to put this travel post together because there's so much to say about this little place, but at the same time there isn't a long list of things, like "Oh you must visit A, B, C and D." Travelers come to Yap for the diverse marine life and excellent diving, but I think one of the most enjoyable activities you'll find here is relaxing and getting reacquainted with the simple life -- chewing on betel nut and chatting with a Yapese local about everything and nothing.

Yap State is part of the Federated States of Micronesia, but has a truly unique and well-preserved culture. It's comprised of four closely situated islands — Yap, Tomil-Gagil, Map and Rumong, all surrounded by a coral reef — as well as numerous far-flung outer islands from which outsiders must request special permission to visit. Yapese culture remains quite traditional: their fascinating giant stone money -- quarried centuries ago on Palau -- is still used as legal tender, many men still spear fish for dinner and many woman still walk about topless wearing only handwoven lavalava.

When I was little, I once dreamed of being an archaeologist, so there were many aspects of life on Yap that I found very intriguing. The stone money itself is fascinating from both a numismatic and economic perspective. And a great many houses, especially men's meeting houses, are built in the traditional manner, with mangrove wood beams and thatched nipa palm roofs. A very good record of Yapese architecture can be found here on archaeologist Dr. Beardsley's online account of her time there. We didn't make it to Ulithi, one of the most populated of Yap's Outer Islands, but here is their website. It's contains an impressive record of local stories and history. I think they're the only Yap island with their own website.

I've linked to the photos below (unbolded links go to my Flickr site, bolded links go elsewhere), but you can view the full photo set and read more here.

::We slept::
The Pathways Hotel is a locally-owned and family-run eco-lodge. It's a really rustic and cozy little outfit, with traditionally constructed bungalows perched on the side of a hill, connected by elevated walkways. Each bungalow has a private balcony overlooking the bay. At night, with rain pattering on the thatched roof and a warm yellow light flickering from antique lamps, I felt very far away from the modern world. Take some time to linger by the front desk and chat with John, Tony or Steve. By day two, you'll feel like part of the family.

If you like a little luxury with your adventure travel, Trader's Ridge Resort might be the place for you. And if you're a diver, then maybe you've heard of the Manta Ray Bay Hotel, a dive resort.

::We got around::
In a rental car.
A rental car is very helpful if you want to explore the island on your own. We rented from the very friendly Pacific Bus Company (Tel: 691.350.2266 or Email: PacificBusCo[at]mail[dot]fm), but you might also try Budget. Yap's roads are flat and well-maintained, so there's no need for a 4-wheel drive.
On foot.
Once you get outside of the capital, Colonia, you'll find many wonderful areas to explore on foot. Ancient stone roads or shady dirt paths link many of the villages. Just remember that most of the land in Yap is privately owned, so politely ask a local if you can take a look around before wandering off-road. Ancient stone platforms, at least 400 years old, are often situated at high points along village roads. They're communal resting areas, where you're welcome to lean up against a stone backrest and help yourself to a coconut or a few betel nuts while you rest your feet.

::We ate::
Yap isn't exactly a dining capital of the world, but as far as seafood goes, you can't go wrong. The waters around Yap are teeming with fish and there are land crabs skittering along the roads everywhere you look. That means that any seafood on your plate was likely alive and kicking about in the wild earlier in the day. Vincent at the Yap Visitor's Bureau assured us that plans were in the works for developing venues to serve Yap cuisine, noting that Yapese typically eat at home in their villages, so it would require a period of training to develop recipes for restaurant chefs. I really hope the next time we visit that we'll get to try some local Yapese food!

Probably the closest thing you can get to traditional Yapese cuisine might be found at The Pathways Hotel. If you order the Island Dinner a day in advance, Steve, Tony, or another member of their friendly staff, will source the island's freshest seafood for you, catching it themselves if necessary. Our delicious dinner of crabs and shrimp was accompanied by Yapese taro cakes, served on plates locally woven of green coconut palm leaves, and adorned with fresh flowers. The lucky guests who ordered the Island Dinner the night before tasted local lobster personally caught by Tony that morning. Ask ahead if you want to make a special request.

The Manta Ray Bay Hotel's floating restaurant is housed in the "SV Mnuw," an antique Indonesian schooner. Most of their menu is rather unexciting (cheeseburgers, pizza...), but their blackened tuna sashimi appetizer was really outstanding. Sometimes they also offer mangrove crab and tapioca, but these were unavailable when we went for lunch.

Yap is pretty laid back, so I think the Veranda View Restaurant at Trader's Ridge just might be the fanciest joint on the island. Enjoy a breeze from the bay while you sample their yummy appetizers: the sashimi, tuna carapaccio, and seafood cakes were all very good. And if you're curious about betel nut, the favorite chew of Yapese folks, order the betel nut martini. It comes with a demonstration and explanation of how to prepare the betel nut.

::We explored::

1. Pink, 2. Stone money bank
We spent our first day on Yap driving around the island and exploring it's various corners on our own.
On the southern, narrow tip of Yap Island, we found small beaches and peaceful dirt roads with land and hermit crabs galore but nary a human in sight. Then we drove north to Tomil-Gagil Island, home to lush mangroves, another lonely beach (Wanyan), and the second largest piece of stone money in Yap. Further, on Maap Island, more secluded walks lined with dense jungle, abandoned stone paths, brilliantly colored flowers, and another deserted beach (Bechiyal). And from the south to the north, every village had it's own thatched meeting house perched by the water, banks of stone money lined the roadsides, cocky roosters crossed paths pockmarked with crab holes.

Since most of the land in Yap is privately owned, you won't find a lot of signposts pointing the way to significant sites. And it's probably for the better; after all, if I had a peaceful little hut in a lush tropical jungle, I certainly wouldn't want random tourists traipsing through my property at all hours. But don't worry, if you're looking lost, chances are that a passing local will stop to offer you directions. Friendliness abounds on Yap. A fellow even drew us a map.

I would love to visit Yap again for a longer stretch, and next time we'll be sure to hire a local guide. Oral tradition, dance culture and stone money bank records have preserved a lot of the fascinating local lore, and there's a good chance that if you sit down for some betel nut chew with a villager, he'll be happy to tell you some Yap stories...

::We snorkeled::

1. Another world, 2. Look, shark!
First, a packing list if you're beginner snorkelers like us...
-- Your own snorkel and mask. A well fitted mask with good suction and a flexible mouthpiece are indispensable. Nothing kills the experience like not being able to breathe! If you wear prescriptive lenses, get a prescription mask -- it's sooo worth it!
-- Fins. We don't own our own because they're a hassle to carry on trips, but they can come in handy if you need to swim far or against the tide. They are not always helpful though -- they can get in the way if you're swimming in shallow water and in danger of hitting coral and fish -- so consider the situation first. You can usually rent them from a dive shop, but if you have small or large feet you might want to ensure a perfect fit by bringing your own. Fins that are too tight or loose can give you leg cramps.
-- Swim shoes. For those situations when fins are too bulky, shoes will protect your feet against accidental scrapes against rocks and coral. And the rubber tread bottoms can help if you're going into the water from a shoreline of slippery rocks.
-- Life vest. Even if you're a good swimmer, a vest helps if you're snorkeling somewhere that you don't want to create a lot of movement. You might want to gently hover in shallow areas with delicate marine life, rather than treading water to stay afloat. Also it's easier to photograph the skittish little fish when you're not kicking. But don't worry about bringing your own unless you're taking yourself out to the snorkelling site; all reputable dive shops should be able to provide them!
-- Waterproof case for your digital camera. I don't have one, but now I want one! Instead, I made do on this trip with waterproof single-use cameras. First of all, these things are insanely expensive. I spent $30 on ONE DISPOSABLE camera! And secondly, their fixed focal range is not made for close-range shots and certainly not macros, so despite being waterproof they are definitely not suitable for swimming amongst colorful fish in gorgeous coral reefs.
-- Waterproof sunscreen. Put it on your back. :)

Our first snorkeling trip on Yap was with Beyond the Reef, a dive center that keeps their tour sizes small so that divers and snorkelers can get the most out of the experience. Morgan and Ray, two friendly guides from the Yap Outer Islands, took us out to Miil Channel, near the manta ray cleaning station. Yap is famous for its diverse marine life, especially its large population of manta rays, some with wingspans of 14 feet. Near Miil Channel, the gentle giants cruise through this natural "car wash" to have their skin picked clean of parasites by small reef fish. Sometimes the mantas swim close enough to the surface for snorkelers to catch a glimpse. Sadly, we didn't see any; perhaps they were swimming too deep that day... I think a prerequisite for our next trip to Yap will be dive certification, so I can see them! If you're not a diver, see if this list of of dive sites on Yap doesn't whett your appetite.

Miil Channel was chock full of diverse colorful fish and there was a gorgeous drop-off that looked like an underwater garden. And later on, as we snorkeled further south at Woneeday Channel, we saw a wonderful, colorful mix of hard and soft coral. Morgan took special care to point out anything interesting in the water. He found this camouflaged, prehistoric-looking crocodile fish that I definitely would have missed without his sharp eyes! After snorkeling at Miil Channel, Morgan and Ray asked us if we wanted to go see sharks. “Don't worry," said Ray, sensing my ambivalence. "The sharks aren't hungry. The divers feed them."

Hmm, I hadn't really thought about that, but I guess it's a good thing that they keep them well-fed. Is it good environmental practice to feed wild animals, though? I would have thought that if one oughtn't feed bears and deer in the woods, one really shouldn't be feeding sharks in the ocean, right? Nevertheless, I'm thankful, for a ten minute boat ride later, there were black-tip reef sharks right where Morgan and Ray predicted they would be, calmly patrolling the waters beneath us!

After such an exciting morning, we looked forward to our second snorkeling tour, an evening trip organized by The Pathways Hotel's very own Steve. Shortly before sundown, we waited by the hotel lobby front desk. "You ready? You got your snorkels?" Steve asked."We're waiting for Kevin."

The Pathways' snorkeling tours are a bit more informal than those run by the dive shops. No rented masks or fins; Gavin borrowed Tony's fins while Steve fixed his broken mask. Kevin, a retired commercial fisherman from Long Island, NY who regularly hangs out in the Pathways restaurant, took us out to Woneeday Channel in a little wooden green outboard motor. Steve handed us flashlights before picking up his spear and splashing into the water as naturally as a fish.

The incoming tide coupled with the setting sun meant that visibility was poor. The colors were muted, compared to the brilliance of the hues we saw that morning. But this snorkeling "tour" was fascinating in its own right, for it turned out to be Steve's evening dinner run. We swam behind Steve as he set out on his mission. When the sun had completely set, we turned on our flashlights. The water was clearer, and the underwater life was bathed in the yellow glow of our flashlights. Every now and then, Steve spotted something and dove down for a closer look. Then, a flash of metal as his spear shot out and skewered a wriggly fish with precision.

“Steve likes to fish at night,” said Kevin, when we climbed back in the boat, tired from pursuing Steve on his fish hunt. “I think it's because the fish are sleeping, he can catch them unawares.” "You know, he's probably looking for clams. He LOVES those things," he mused. The catch of the day was a little red fish with big eyes. By the end of the evening as we turned the boat back towards Colonia, there were 6 of them destined for the dinner plate.

::We kayaked::

1. Environment lesson, 2. Trying betel nut
For our third day in Yap, we decided to do a kayak tour. Again, we had to time our water sports for the high tide, so we were on our way by 9 am. Richard, our guide from the Manta Ray Bay Hotel, drove us out to the mangroves at Maaq village. On the way, we all slathered on mosquito repellent.

It was my first time in a kayak, and the swift current going under the bridge was a little difficult to navigate, but it didn't take too long to get the hang of going forward, left, right and back.

The mangroves near Maaq village were peaceful and hushed. It was just the three of us -- Richard, Gavin and myself -- floating on the mirror-like water, surrounded by dense trees, under a lush canopy... As we kayaked, Richard pointed out different native plants and animals. He showed us the nipa palm trees whose leaves are used as thatched roofing for houses, as well as the round, ball-like nipa seeds. He pointed out the cannonball fruit, which he used to play with as a child. And he explained how mangrove seeds propagate, and how helpful mangroves are to Yap villagers, who still rely heavily on the sea for food and livelihood.

After we finished kayaking almost 3 hours later, Richard loaded the kayaks back onto the pickup truck, and then we all sat on the “porch” of a nearby men's meeting house to snack on fruits. A big grin came over Richard's face. Time for his favorite part of the meal: betel nut! It's no exaggeration to say that betal nut chewing may be the favorite pastime of every Yapese. Richard showed us how to prepare the betel nut by biting it to split it in half, adding lime powder, and wrapping it all up with a pepper leaf. We munched and spat, talking all the while.

Richard explained that the Yapese often call betel nut “wisdom in a basket.” When the village elders are sitting around chewing nut and the younger men are busy working, sometimes the elders will tell them to take a rest and chew some betel with them. Then they will start to tell stories. Over betel nut, generations of stories and advice have been passed down.

::We learned::

1. Motion, 2. Dance

On our final evening in Yap, we signed up for the Kaday Village Cultural Tour. This tour is offered twice a week, allowing tourists to visit a village, try some betel nut, watch basket weaving, and see a traditional Yapese dance performance. Yap's dance arts are alive and well, but not commonly seen by outsiders, so it seemed like it would be a good educational experience. And it probably would have been, if there had not been a group of over 40 Russian divers also scheduled for the same tour... Over 40 people! It was the most people we had seen gathered in one place since arriving on Yap!

The Cultural Tour began when three villagers from Kaday -- Charlie, an older gentleman and a young boy -- met us at the beginning of the stone path to the village. When we got to the village, beautiful leis were passed out, fresh coconuts were hewn and taro cakes and fruits were served. Older women sat on the stone platform weaving baskets while the teenagers prepared for their dance performance and small naked children tumbled about. Charlie was the main point person for questions, but seemed to have a hard time addressing so many people. I got the feeling that such a large tour was uncommon for him. At the end, everyone dispersed to their hotel-bound vans.

What did we learn? Although one might come to Yap to "get away from civilization," I think you might find that life here is a lot more civilized here than most places. But the best moments came when we weren't looking for them, and they didn't come from seeking out "tourist activities," but from simple everyday interactions. At the Cultural Tour, the juxtaposition of large numbers of tourists vs. villagers left everyone shy and awkward. Although the Bamboo Dance was an enjoyable spectacle full of color and rhythm, we didn't get to talk to anyone, and the situation was contrived and unnatural for both sides. In contrast, we found delightful "only in Yap" moments just standing around in the hotel lobby, getting lost along an ancient stone path, having a lunchtime snack with our kayak guide, or following spearfishing Steve for a nightime snorkeling run.

The rule-of-thumb that Gavin and I are developing for our island adventures: spend more time on smaller islands, less time on big islands.

Guam

1. Rotidian Point, 2. Beautiful rolling hills

We stayed in Guam for 3 days: One day before continuing on to Yap and Palau, and 2 days on the way back before returning to Seoul.

Guam is the southernmost island among the Marianas, and a territory of the United States. If you're an American expat in Asia who's feeling a little homesick, hop on over to Guam: browse through the aisles of Kmart, pick up some sugary cereal, get re-aquainted with inane American hip-pop on the car radio (Leona Lewis, Madonna, Jordin Sparks and some idiot named Schwayze, were on CONSTANT ROTATION) -- just like the States, but sunnier. And with more Japanese tourists.

Guam also feels like it's really close to the equator. At noon, it's like the sun is right on top of you. So don't forget to wear a lot of sunscreen... The photo set is here.

We slept
Ohana Oceanview Guam
Since we were arriving in Guam after midnight on Saturday early morning, and leaving in the evening for Yap, we really just needed a place to crash for a few hours. This hotel won't win any awards for decor -- it's still stuck in the flower-print Laura Ashley trend of the 80's -- but it was clean, comfy and affordable.
Hotel Nikko
We stayed here for two nights, two days. The Guam branch of this Japanese hotel chain isn't for those seeking a luxury hospitality experience, but it's got simple, tasteful decor and it's spic-and-span. The wave-like shape of the building ensures that every room has an ocean view. The pool is pretty big, there is a separate kiddie pool as well as a popular water slide, and there's a private beach which is connected to the adjacent, public Gun Beach. At both beaches, waves break close to the shore and the swimming is a bit choppy. The Westin Resort next door seems to have a better slice of real estate, beach-wise.

We got around
In a rental car
If you want to explore Guam beyond Tumon Bay (where all the resorts are), then you'll need a rental car. Hertz, Budget and Avis all have counters at the airport, and you can reserve your car online. On the other hand, if you just want to stay in the resort area, you can get around by taking the Shopping Bus. There is a public bus system, as evidenced by the numerous concrete bus shelters, but during our time there I never actually saw a public bus...
The roads are well paved, so you won't need a 4-wheel drive vehicle.
With maps
The map from the rental car company was pretty useless, but the map inside the Island Time magazine that we picked up at the Guam airport was invaluable; try to get your hands on one.

We relaxed at
Ritidian Beach
A beach on the northern tip of the island, a long drive past the Airforce Base. It's a big, secluded white sand beach, perfect if you want to get away from civilization. The water is very shallow, even at high tide.
Ipan Beach
A laid-back beach on the southeastern side of the island. It's located near Jeff's Pirate Cove and seems like a popular spot for family barbeques, especially on weekends. Good swimming at high tide.
Inarajan Swimming Hole
A refreshing salt-water pool with a diving platform. Local teenagers were having a blast diving into the pool when we were there, so we also took a cool dip too. When we climbed out, we spotted a sign mentioning that it might not be safe as bacteria levels were "currently high." Oh.
The War in the Pacific National Historical Park
This national park has some remnants of WWII battles. There are some Japanese anti-aircraft guns and crumbling bunkers. Also: a stretch of pebbly sand, clear blue waters, picnic/barbeque shelters, and a large parking lot.

We saw
Spanish colonial ruins
Spanish settlers first arrived in Guam in the mid 1500s and the Spanish colonial period continued until the U.S. took control after the 1898 Spanish-American War. There are still a lot of ruins from that period throughout the island. In the village of Merizo you can find a convent and tower built at the turn of the century. The Plaza de Espana was the residence of the Spanish governor. And Fort Nuestro Senora de la Soledad and Fort Santa Agueda also date to that era.
WWII ruins
Japan occupied Guam from 1941-1944. Sunken WWII tanks and ships make popular sites for visiting divers, and rusting Japanese anti-aircraft guns and bunkers can be found along the western coast at the War in the Pacific National Park and Gun Beach.
Latte Stone Park
The stones here are some of the few remnants of pre-colonial Chamorro culture on Guam. It's somewhat of a mystery, but researchers think that these might have been the support structures for ancient meeting houses.
Guam Greyhound Park
My first time at the races! Guam has a popular dogracing track, where greyhounds chase the speeding mechanical rabbit every night except for Mondays and Wednesdays, and onlookers place their bets. After studying the racing form for a bit, we tried our hand betting on several races. I won twice when betting for a win: Sincere Sarah won the first race, and I got $12.50 back after placing a $3 minimum bet. Red Intention won Race 5; I got $7.50 back for that bet. When we tried some fancier betting options: place, quiniela, boxed quiniela and trifecta, we lost. Race 7 also presented the option of placing a superfecta bet (predicting 7 dogs in the correct order) but we decided that was too risky. The entrance fee is $10 for non-Guam residents, $2.50 for local residents, and $1.50 for military personnel. Gates open at 6pm and races start at 7:30pm.
Talofofo Falls Resort Park & Yokoi's Cave
Gavin and I thought this "resort" was a thoroughly depressing rip-off. Firstly, we were astounded by the $20 entry fee. Our hopes that this would be worth it were dashed when we entered and found a ridiculous array of "activities" that the owner gathered together in the hopes of making money off of poor Shoichi Yokoi's memory. Gathered together in this park are: A fun house, a merry go round, a child train, a cable car, a shooting range, an erotic themed garden, and, of course, Yokoi's Cave. None of the structures seem very sturdy (most alarmingly, the cable car) and generally look like lawsuits waiting to happen. You can also buy animal feed to feed the pigs and ducks that are roaming around. I felt bad that this was all that was left of Yokoi's 28 years in hiding. Here's some footage so you don't have to pay the entrance fee yourself.

We ate at
Winchell's
Mmmm... Doughnuts....
Denny's
There was a Denny's in the Micronesia Mall, just a few minutes drive from our hotel. We went there in the early morning when other restuarants were still closed. I clogged my arteries with an All-American Slam (scrambled eggs with cheese, bacon, sausage and hash browns). It was the first Denny's I'd ever been to, but I don't think I'll go back for awhile. Not bad, but predictably greasy.
Proa
We came here for a late dinner after watching the grayhound races nearby. The tuna tartare we had for the appetizer -- a combination of tuna sashimi and guacamole! -- was very tasty, and Gavin and I both enjoyed the soft-shelled crab sandwish and pan-fried local fish that we ordered. The guide in Island Time magazine said that Proa served "Chamorro food haute cuisine style," but I didn't really detect any Chamorro flavors in the food -- just inventively prepared dishes of fresh, local ingredients.
Jeff's Pirate Cove
Apparently, The Cove is an island institution. The restaurant has been around, in one form or another, since 1953. They've got a lot of kitschy pirate paraphernalia -- remnants of a village and ship left by Malay pirates had been found in the area -- and a souvenir gift shop, but it's more than a tourist trap. It also a family-type restaurant that large groups and local families seem to favor, and was particularly crowded on Sunday afternoon after church services... We ordered their Chamorro Fiesta plate, a pile of barbeque (chicken, beef, ribs) and kelaguan (fish, squid) served with two scoops of red rice. It wasn't a huge plate, but the two of us shared one and were quite satisfied. Don't forget your free cone of frozen yogurt after your meal!
Benkay at Hotel Nikko
Benkay is the Japanese restaurant at Hotel Nikko. We had some natto and sashimi there, and weren't disappointed. The uni was fantastic.

We shopped
Pleasure Island
A cluster of malls and chain restaurants near the Outrigger Guam Resort is rather cheesily named "Pleasure Island."
I'm not really a big fan of brand name luxury goods, and I don't really see the point of shopping at widely available chain stores when I'm traveling, but on our last evening in Guam we decided to poke our head around Pleasure Island to see what we could see. The Plaza is a smallish mall attached to the Outrigger Resort: they've got some teenybopper shops, a Hard Rock Cafe, and a hairdresser, but nothing fancy. Across the street you'll find a DFS Galleria complete with the usual suspect luxury logos: Hermes, Ferragamo, Prada, LV, etc. Also in Pleasure Island, you'll find an aquarium, a Planet Hollywood, and a Sand Castle theater. Ultimately we didn't end up buying anything, but we settled into the lounge at the Outrigger Resort for one of our favorite activities while vacationing in Asia... yup, listening to Filipino lounge singers do covers of hits from the 70's, 80's and 90's....
Payless Supermarket
Some might think I'm weird, but my other favorite activity when vacationing is going to supermarkets. Especially after living in Seoul for a while, where there isn't much diversity in the groceries available, I could just wander the aisles for hours in awe, marveling at all the different products and how CHEAP they are. (Yes, compared to Seoul, Guam is actually cheap.) Payless is a local chain but the stock reminds me a lot of what I might find in a supermarket in Queens, NY. Spanish, Filippino, Indian and Chinese ingredients, all side by side with American products. We stocked up on cheeeese and decided to smuggle one sausage.
KMart
Ok, I've heard rumors that this is the largest Kmart in the world, so we were eager to see it. After noshing on some Little Caesar's (Pizza! Pizza!) we roamed the aisles for a bit and concluded that if this is the largest KMart, then that doesn't say much for the size of KMarts in general. Turns out that the truly largest KMart is in Ohio. Guam's was average-sized by American standards. After living in Seoul for a while, I was somewhat tempted by the selection of sugary cereals and cheap shampoo. Wow, hair and skin care that doesn't cost over $15 a bottle! I could start a black market...

Guam was our gateway to some other island trips. Our stays there were stopovers before and after going to Yap and Palau on Continental Micronesia. More Pacific Island photos and travel guides coming up...!

Rota

1. Dried coral, 2. Rain coming, 3. Broken fence, 4. Flower

[Edited Jan 09] For Christmas 2007 we went to the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands, spending a total of 3 days on Saipan and 1 day on Rota. Then for New Year's 2009, we returned to revisit Saipan and check out the third island, Tinian. If you're living in Asia and looking for a low-pressure, long weekend getaway, the CNMI are a lovely island trio to explore. I've done a mini travel post for each of the three, so if you're thinking of visiting, read on!
> Read about Saipan here.
> Read about Tinian here.

> Read about Rota below...

Rota was just so laid back and charming that if she were a person, I'd hug her. And if we visit the Northern Marianas again, I think I would spend most of my time on Rota, just transitting through Saipan or Guam via Freedom Air. Check out my photos from the trip here.

When researching for our trip, we had a hard time finding stuff on the internet about tiny Rota. She's only about 32 square miles in land area, and there aren't really any detailed maps that I could find online.

For a good geographic introduction, take a look at Lonely Planet's South Pacific and Micronesia book (purchase just the Northern Marianas section in PDF form here) and Wikimapia can also help you get a lay of the land. Ultimately, the most useful map for us was the one we got at the car rental. And here is a little map I sketched to give you a sense of where things are....


1. Airport, 2. Coconut Village Resort, 3. Guata Beach, 4. Teteto Beach, 5. U.S. Memorial Beach Park, 6. Song Song (Rota's downtown), 7. * Mt. Taipingot (Wedding Cake Mountain), 8. Old Paupau Hotel (abandoned), 9. Japanese cannon, 10. * Tropical gardens, 11. * Bird sanctuary, 12. * Latte stone quarry, 13. Mochong Beach, 14. Swimming hole (* we only had one day here and it was Christmas, so we didn't get to visit some of the attractions)

We slept
Coconut Village Resort (#2)
We didn't try booking through the Agoda website linked above, so I don't know how that works. But you can just as easily call them at (670) 532-3448. Rates are from $55/day, sooo much cheaper than Saipan! Coconut Village is Japanese-owned, and their bungalows are spacious (although the bathrooms are Japanese-style tiny), and the rooms are clean, comfortable and have balconies. I liked it so much better than the overpriced Hyatt on Saipan.

We got around
In a rental car
Budget and Hertz have car rentals here. You might need a 4-wheel drive, especially for the southern side of the island which is unpaved.

We relaxed
Guata Beach (#3)
Rocky but picturesque beach with not much sand.
Teteto Beach (#4)
Our favorite beach on the island. Virtually deserted except for the one guy who rents beach chairs there. He seems to get there pretty early in the morning to rake the sand and set up his operation and he packs up at sundown. What a job. The water was shallow, but when we were here the currents were pretty strong, so swimming was difficult.
U.S. Memorial Beach Park (#5)
A small, relaxing beach. There is a rusted boat on the eastern end.
A beach a little to the east of Pinitang Park (#6)
Just east of Songsong (the town) there's some beach access. There is some grass, but no sand, just lots of smooth (and slippery!) rocks (beach shoes are helpful). The water is very calm due to the protective line of rocks about a hundred meters off-shore, so it makes for a very calm swimming pool. Colorful fish cling to the rocks and sea cucumbers colonize the sandy bottom.
Mochong Beach (#13)
On the eastern end of the island, after a long bumpy dirt road. Very secluded and beautiful, but the water was quite rough when we were there.
Swimming Hole (#14)
It would have been lovely to swim here, but it looked like this when we went. So, no swimming.

We ate
As Pari's (#6)
Pretty tasty Philippino and Chamorro cuisine.
Tia's Cafe (#6)
Homey little restaurant serving Philippino and Chamorro food. Delicious!
BBQ stands
Throughout the island there are roadside counters (some with awnings and picnic tables) that advertise BBQ for $.75 or $1. But they were always closed when we passed. Probably because it was Christmas weekend...

We saw
Beautiful, picturesque scenery along the unpaved dirt roads on the southern edge of the island.
Changeable weather that was rainy one minute and sunny the next. And friendly locals, ALL of whom wave at you when you pass.

If you're into lots of water sports and resort activities, Rota definitely is NOT the place to go. But if you just want to check out of society for a bit and sleep on a beach all afternoon with the water lapping at your toes, then by all means do it on sleepy little Rota. Every account about Rota I read mentioned how friendly everyone was, and it's true! It might catch you off guard at first, but EVERYONE on Rota waves hello, and by the end of your first day there you will be waving to every passerby too.