Yap

1. Men's meeting house, 2. Old stone path, black-and-white

1. Orange and gray, 2. Sea urchin shell
Yap is tiny in comparison to Guam, but I wish we could have stayed longer than the 3 days we allotted! The locals are among the friendliest and warmest people I've met anywhere in the world. It took me some time to put this travel post together because there's so much to say about this little place, but at the same time there isn't a long list of things, like "Oh you must visit A, B, C and D." Travelers come to Yap for the diverse marine life and excellent diving, but I think one of the most enjoyable activities you'll find here is relaxing and getting reacquainted with the simple life -- chewing on betel nut and chatting with a Yapese local about everything and nothing.

Yap State is part of the Federated States of Micronesia, but has a truly unique and well-preserved culture. It's comprised of four closely situated islands — Yap, Tomil-Gagil, Map and Rumong, all surrounded by a coral reef — as well as numerous far-flung outer islands from which outsiders must request special permission to visit. Yapese culture remains quite traditional: their fascinating giant stone money -- quarried centuries ago on Palau -- is still used as legal tender, many men still spear fish for dinner and many woman still walk about topless wearing only handwoven lavalava.

When I was little, I once dreamed of being an archaeologist, so there were many aspects of life on Yap that I found very intriguing. The stone money itself is fascinating from both a numismatic and economic perspective. And a great many houses, especially men's meeting houses, are built in the traditional manner, with mangrove wood beams and thatched nipa palm roofs. A very good record of Yapese architecture can be found here on archaeologist Dr. Beardsley's online account of her time there. We didn't make it to Ulithi, one of the most populated of Yap's Outer Islands, but here is their website. It's contains an impressive record of local stories and history. I think they're the only Yap island with their own website.

I've linked to the photos below (unbolded links go to my Flickr site, bolded links go elsewhere), but you can view the full photo set and read more here.

::We slept::
The Pathways Hotel is a locally-owned and family-run eco-lodge. It's a really rustic and cozy little outfit, with traditionally constructed bungalows perched on the side of a hill, connected by elevated walkways. Each bungalow has a private balcony overlooking the bay. At night, with rain pattering on the thatched roof and a warm yellow light flickering from antique lamps, I felt very far away from the modern world. Take some time to linger by the front desk and chat with John, Tony or Steve. By day two, you'll feel like part of the family.

If you like a little luxury with your adventure travel, Trader's Ridge Resort might be the place for you. And if you're a diver, then maybe you've heard of the Manta Ray Bay Hotel, a dive resort.

::We got around::
In a rental car.
A rental car is very helpful if you want to explore the island on your own. We rented from the very friendly Pacific Bus Company (Tel: 691.350.2266 or Email: PacificBusCo[at]mail[dot]fm), but you might also try Budget. Yap's roads are flat and well-maintained, so there's no need for a 4-wheel drive.
On foot.
Once you get outside of the capital, Colonia, you'll find many wonderful areas to explore on foot. Ancient stone roads or shady dirt paths link many of the villages. Just remember that most of the land in Yap is privately owned, so politely ask a local if you can take a look around before wandering off-road. Ancient stone platforms, at least 400 years old, are often situated at high points along village roads. They're communal resting areas, where you're welcome to lean up against a stone backrest and help yourself to a coconut or a few betel nuts while you rest your feet.

::We ate::
Yap isn't exactly a dining capital of the world, but as far as seafood goes, you can't go wrong. The waters around Yap are teeming with fish and there are land crabs skittering along the roads everywhere you look. That means that any seafood on your plate was likely alive and kicking about in the wild earlier in the day. Vincent at the Yap Visitor's Bureau assured us that plans were in the works for developing venues to serve Yap cuisine, noting that Yapese typically eat at home in their villages, so it would require a period of training to develop recipes for restaurant chefs. I really hope the next time we visit that we'll get to try some local Yapese food!

Probably the closest thing you can get to traditional Yapese cuisine might be found at The Pathways Hotel. If you order the Island Dinner a day in advance, Steve, Tony, or another member of their friendly staff, will source the island's freshest seafood for you, catching it themselves if necessary. Our delicious dinner of crabs and shrimp was accompanied by Yapese taro cakes, served on plates locally woven of green coconut palm leaves, and adorned with fresh flowers. The lucky guests who ordered the Island Dinner the night before tasted local lobster personally caught by Tony that morning. Ask ahead if you want to make a special request.

The Manta Ray Bay Hotel's floating restaurant is housed in the "SV Mnuw," an antique Indonesian schooner. Most of their menu is rather unexciting (cheeseburgers, pizza...), but their blackened tuna sashimi appetizer was really outstanding. Sometimes they also offer mangrove crab and tapioca, but these were unavailable when we went for lunch.

Yap is pretty laid back, so I think the Veranda View Restaurant at Trader's Ridge just might be the fanciest joint on the island. Enjoy a breeze from the bay while you sample their yummy appetizers: the sashimi, tuna carapaccio, and seafood cakes were all very good. And if you're curious about betel nut, the favorite chew of Yapese folks, order the betel nut martini. It comes with a demonstration and explanation of how to prepare the betel nut.

::We explored::

1. Pink, 2. Stone money bank
We spent our first day on Yap driving around the island and exploring it's various corners on our own.
On the southern, narrow tip of Yap Island, we found small beaches and peaceful dirt roads with land and hermit crabs galore but nary a human in sight. Then we drove north to Tomil-Gagil Island, home to lush mangroves, another lonely beach (Wanyan), and the second largest piece of stone money in Yap. Further, on Maap Island, more secluded walks lined with dense jungle, abandoned stone paths, brilliantly colored flowers, and another deserted beach (Bechiyal). And from the south to the north, every village had it's own thatched meeting house perched by the water, banks of stone money lined the roadsides, cocky roosters crossed paths pockmarked with crab holes.

Since most of the land in Yap is privately owned, you won't find a lot of signposts pointing the way to significant sites. And it's probably for the better; after all, if I had a peaceful little hut in a lush tropical jungle, I certainly wouldn't want random tourists traipsing through my property at all hours. But don't worry, if you're looking lost, chances are that a passing local will stop to offer you directions. Friendliness abounds on Yap. A fellow even drew us a map.

I would love to visit Yap again for a longer stretch, and next time we'll be sure to hire a local guide. Oral tradition, dance culture and stone money bank records have preserved a lot of the fascinating local lore, and there's a good chance that if you sit down for some betel nut chew with a villager, he'll be happy to tell you some Yap stories...

::We snorkeled::

1. Another world, 2. Look, shark!
First, a packing list if you're beginner snorkelers like us...
-- Your own snorkel and mask. A well fitted mask with good suction and a flexible mouthpiece are indispensable. Nothing kills the experience like not being able to breathe! If you wear prescriptive lenses, get a prescription mask -- it's sooo worth it!
-- Fins. We don't own our own because they're a hassle to carry on trips, but they can come in handy if you need to swim far or against the tide. They are not always helpful though -- they can get in the way if you're swimming in shallow water and in danger of hitting coral and fish -- so consider the situation first. You can usually rent them from a dive shop, but if you have small or large feet you might want to ensure a perfect fit by bringing your own. Fins that are too tight or loose can give you leg cramps.
-- Swim shoes. For those situations when fins are too bulky, shoes will protect your feet against accidental scrapes against rocks and coral. And the rubber tread bottoms can help if you're going into the water from a shoreline of slippery rocks.
-- Life vest. Even if you're a good swimmer, a vest helps if you're snorkeling somewhere that you don't want to create a lot of movement. You might want to gently hover in shallow areas with delicate marine life, rather than treading water to stay afloat. Also it's easier to photograph the skittish little fish when you're not kicking. But don't worry about bringing your own unless you're taking yourself out to the snorkelling site; all reputable dive shops should be able to provide them!
-- Waterproof case for your digital camera. I don't have one, but now I want one! Instead, I made do on this trip with waterproof single-use cameras. First of all, these things are insanely expensive. I spent $30 on ONE DISPOSABLE camera! And secondly, their fixed focal range is not made for close-range shots and certainly not macros, so despite being waterproof they are definitely not suitable for swimming amongst colorful fish in gorgeous coral reefs.
-- Waterproof sunscreen. Put it on your back. :)

Our first snorkeling trip on Yap was with Beyond the Reef, a dive center that keeps their tour sizes small so that divers and snorkelers can get the most out of the experience. Morgan and Ray, two friendly guides from the Yap Outer Islands, took us out to Miil Channel, near the manta ray cleaning station. Yap is famous for its diverse marine life, especially its large population of manta rays, some with wingspans of 14 feet. Near Miil Channel, the gentle giants cruise through this natural "car wash" to have their skin picked clean of parasites by small reef fish. Sometimes the mantas swim close enough to the surface for snorkelers to catch a glimpse. Sadly, we didn't see any; perhaps they were swimming too deep that day... I think a prerequisite for our next trip to Yap will be dive certification, so I can see them! If you're not a diver, see if this list of of dive sites on Yap doesn't whett your appetite.

Miil Channel was chock full of diverse colorful fish and there was a gorgeous drop-off that looked like an underwater garden. And later on, as we snorkeled further south at Woneeday Channel, we saw a wonderful, colorful mix of hard and soft coral. Morgan took special care to point out anything interesting in the water. He found this camouflaged, prehistoric-looking crocodile fish that I definitely would have missed without his sharp eyes! After snorkeling at Miil Channel, Morgan and Ray asked us if we wanted to go see sharks. “Don't worry," said Ray, sensing my ambivalence. "The sharks aren't hungry. The divers feed them."

Hmm, I hadn't really thought about that, but I guess it's a good thing that they keep them well-fed. Is it good environmental practice to feed wild animals, though? I would have thought that if one oughtn't feed bears and deer in the woods, one really shouldn't be feeding sharks in the ocean, right? Nevertheless, I'm thankful, for a ten minute boat ride later, there were black-tip reef sharks right where Morgan and Ray predicted they would be, calmly patrolling the waters beneath us!

After such an exciting morning, we looked forward to our second snorkeling tour, an evening trip organized by The Pathways Hotel's very own Steve. Shortly before sundown, we waited by the hotel lobby front desk. "You ready? You got your snorkels?" Steve asked."We're waiting for Kevin."

The Pathways' snorkeling tours are a bit more informal than those run by the dive shops. No rented masks or fins; Gavin borrowed Tony's fins while Steve fixed his broken mask. Kevin, a retired commercial fisherman from Long Island, NY who regularly hangs out in the Pathways restaurant, took us out to Woneeday Channel in a little wooden green outboard motor. Steve handed us flashlights before picking up his spear and splashing into the water as naturally as a fish.

The incoming tide coupled with the setting sun meant that visibility was poor. The colors were muted, compared to the brilliance of the hues we saw that morning. But this snorkeling "tour" was fascinating in its own right, for it turned out to be Steve's evening dinner run. We swam behind Steve as he set out on his mission. When the sun had completely set, we turned on our flashlights. The water was clearer, and the underwater life was bathed in the yellow glow of our flashlights. Every now and then, Steve spotted something and dove down for a closer look. Then, a flash of metal as his spear shot out and skewered a wriggly fish with precision.

“Steve likes to fish at night,” said Kevin, when we climbed back in the boat, tired from pursuing Steve on his fish hunt. “I think it's because the fish are sleeping, he can catch them unawares.” "You know, he's probably looking for clams. He LOVES those things," he mused. The catch of the day was a little red fish with big eyes. By the end of the evening as we turned the boat back towards Colonia, there were 6 of them destined for the dinner plate.

::We kayaked::

1. Environment lesson, 2. Trying betel nut
For our third day in Yap, we decided to do a kayak tour. Again, we had to time our water sports for the high tide, so we were on our way by 9 am. Richard, our guide from the Manta Ray Bay Hotel, drove us out to the mangroves at Maaq village. On the way, we all slathered on mosquito repellent.

It was my first time in a kayak, and the swift current going under the bridge was a little difficult to navigate, but it didn't take too long to get the hang of going forward, left, right and back.

The mangroves near Maaq village were peaceful and hushed. It was just the three of us -- Richard, Gavin and myself -- floating on the mirror-like water, surrounded by dense trees, under a lush canopy... As we kayaked, Richard pointed out different native plants and animals. He showed us the nipa palm trees whose leaves are used as thatched roofing for houses, as well as the round, ball-like nipa seeds. He pointed out the cannonball fruit, which he used to play with as a child. And he explained how mangrove seeds propagate, and how helpful mangroves are to Yap villagers, who still rely heavily on the sea for food and livelihood.

After we finished kayaking almost 3 hours later, Richard loaded the kayaks back onto the pickup truck, and then we all sat on the “porch” of a nearby men's meeting house to snack on fruits. A big grin came over Richard's face. Time for his favorite part of the meal: betel nut! It's no exaggeration to say that betal nut chewing may be the favorite pastime of every Yapese. Richard showed us how to prepare the betel nut by biting it to split it in half, adding lime powder, and wrapping it all up with a pepper leaf. We munched and spat, talking all the while.

Richard explained that the Yapese often call betel nut “wisdom in a basket.” When the village elders are sitting around chewing nut and the younger men are busy working, sometimes the elders will tell them to take a rest and chew some betel with them. Then they will start to tell stories. Over betel nut, generations of stories and advice have been passed down.

::We learned::

1. Motion, 2. Dance

On our final evening in Yap, we signed up for the Kaday Village Cultural Tour. This tour is offered twice a week, allowing tourists to visit a village, try some betel nut, watch basket weaving, and see a traditional Yapese dance performance. Yap's dance arts are alive and well, but not commonly seen by outsiders, so it seemed like it would be a good educational experience. And it probably would have been, if there had not been a group of over 40 Russian divers also scheduled for the same tour... Over 40 people! It was the most people we had seen gathered in one place since arriving on Yap!

The Cultural Tour began when three villagers from Kaday -- Charlie, an older gentleman and a young boy -- met us at the beginning of the stone path to the village. When we got to the village, beautiful leis were passed out, fresh coconuts were hewn and taro cakes and fruits were served. Older women sat on the stone platform weaving baskets while the teenagers prepared for their dance performance and small naked children tumbled about. Charlie was the main point person for questions, but seemed to have a hard time addressing so many people. I got the feeling that such a large tour was uncommon for him. At the end, everyone dispersed to their hotel-bound vans.

What did we learn? Although one might come to Yap to "get away from civilization," I think you might find that life here is a lot more civilized here than most places. But the best moments came when we weren't looking for them, and they didn't come from seeking out "tourist activities," but from simple everyday interactions. At the Cultural Tour, the juxtaposition of large numbers of tourists vs. villagers left everyone shy and awkward. Although the Bamboo Dance was an enjoyable spectacle full of color and rhythm, we didn't get to talk to anyone, and the situation was contrived and unnatural for both sides. In contrast, we found delightful "only in Yap" moments just standing around in the hotel lobby, getting lost along an ancient stone path, having a lunchtime snack with our kayak guide, or following spearfishing Steve for a nightime snorkeling run.

The rule-of-thumb that Gavin and I are developing for our island adventures: spend more time on smaller islands, less time on big islands.